Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.